This post is dedicated to my sewing friend Becky, AKA The Barefoot Seamstress, who has inspired me to write a post about the pattern-drafting course I am attending.
I am attending a pattern drafting course in the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design, which is the best fashion school in the country, and incidentally, a 5 minute drive from my house :-)
The lessons are four hours long, once a week, for 14 months. So far I have attended two lessons and we've learned so much already. We are drafting at a scale of 3:1. This means that if we want to draw a 30 cm line, we would actually draw a 10 cm line (using a special scaled ruler). This way, our drawings fit into A3 sized sketching paper. Later on in the course we will be required to draft in real-life scale at home, sew up the garment out of muslin, and bring it to class for fitting alterations.
Here's what we've learned to draft so far.
We've drafted a basic skirt block, using custom hip and waist measurements.
There's the one-dart variation:
|basic skirt block - one dart|
|basic skirt block - two darts|
When there's a great difference between the waist and the hip measurements (when the hips are proportionately much larger than the waist, such as in a pear-shaped figure), it may be better to use two darts in the back (which translates to four darts on the full back piece) rather than just one. This way the fullness is distributed better.
We've drafted collotes, or a pants-skirt (skirt-pants?):
|collotes / pants skirt|
We made a "template" out of the basic skirt block, by tracing it with tracing paper and gluing that to a piece of cardboard:
|basic skirt block - cardboard template|
And we used this cardboard template in order to draft an A-line skirt by pivoting at the dart point and eliminating the dart:
|somewhat full circle skirt|
|"light" circle skirt (not a lot of flare)|
|half circle skirt (180 degrees)|
|full circle skirt (360 degrees)|
Would you believe we learned all that in just the first two lessons?
I can't wait for whatever's in store for us in the next lessons!
Have you attended a pattern-drafting course?
If so, how has it affected your sewing?
If not, would you like to?